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Sunday, February 16, 2020

Trump Administration Expected to Crack Down on Marketplace Sites in New Counterfeit-Centric Memo

Almost 10 months after Donald Trump signed a memo aimed at combatting the import of counterfeit goods into the U.S., with an emphasis on “third-party online marketplaces,” including “Alibaba, Amazon, and eBay,” and less than two weeks after reports that the $1 trillion behemoth that is Amazon will do more to prevent the sale of fakes on its sites, the Trump administration released its official plan to cut down on the ever-increasing counterfeit trade. 




A booming industry, the total trade in counterfeit and pirated goods tops $1.5 trillion across the globe, according to the International AntiCounterfeiting Coalition. Counterfeit and pirated goods, as well as trade secret theft, cost the U.S. economy, alone, as much as $600 billion a year, or 3 percent of the U.S. gross domestic product, Steve Shapiro, the unit chief for the FBI's intellectual property rights unit told CNBC.
Given the jurisdictional issues when it comes to counterfeit sellers (most are located outside of the U.S.) and other practical roadblocks at play, the fight against fakes is a complex one. “Foreign sellers face little risk of prosecution,” an administration official told Reuters. As such, strong U.S. government action "is necessary to fundamentally realign incentive structures." 
Speaking to CNBC on the heels of the signing of Phase One of Trump’s trade deal with China this month, which follows from claims of rampant infringement of American intellectual property by Chinese entities, Peter Navarro, the Director of the National Trade Council at the White House, revealed that as of now, “if you’re an intellectual property rights holder, whether you’re Michael Kors or Louis Vuitton or Pfizer selling prescription drugs, the onus is really on your company to police the internet, where a lot of this counterfeiting occurs.” 
“That’s not right,” according to Navarro, who says that “the Amazons and the Alibabas, Shopify” – which “have been facilitators of the Chinese counterfeiting” – need to act on their “responsibility to police the problem.” He further noted that sites like “Amazon and eBay” are “making a bunch of money … selling this counterfeit stuff,” without “accepting [their] full responsibility,” which is almost certainly a reference to marketplace sites’ recurring attempt to disclaim liability by asserting that they are not the “sellers” in such equations but merely middlemen. This is what Amazon argued in a recent case over the sale of a defective dog leash that a consumer purchased from its site. 
That case – which could have sweeping impacts for Amazon and its vas third-party marketplace – is still underway, with a Third Circuit Court of Appeals hearing en banc expected this year.  
As for the Trump administration’s latest counterfeit-specific plan, on Friday, the Department of Homeland Security’s Office of Strategy, Policy & Plans released a report entitled, “Combatting Trafficking in Counterfeit and Pirated Goods,” stating that at the forefront of the “best practices for private sector stakeholders” is “the idea that e-commerce platforms, online third-party marketplaces, and other third-party intermediaries such as customs brokers and express consignment carriers must take a more active role in monitoring, detecting, and preventing trafficking in counterfeit and pirated goods.” 
An increased focus on the crack down on counterfeits will be a welcome development for fashion and luxury brands, in particular, which is a particularly hard-hit segment of the market when it comes to the scale of the manufacturing and sale of counterfeits. After all, luxury goods are amongst the most commonly affected, with fake luxury products – from logo-bearing sunglasses to fake leather goods and shoes – accounting for “between 60 to 70 percent” of the total sales of counterfeit goods, per Harvard Business Review, “ahead of pharmaceuticals and entertainment products and representing perhaps [the equivalent of] one quarter of the estimated $1.2 trillion total trade in authentic luxury goods.”
With that in mind and given the need for luxury brands, in particular, to maintain the image of exclusivity associated with their valuable trademarks, brands routinely spend tens of millions of dollars each year to police unauthorizes uses of their trademarks. HBR reported in May that LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the parent company to 75 luxury goods brands, including fashion houses like Louis Vuitton, Dior, Givenchy, and Celine, “employs at least 60 lawyers and spends $17 million annually on anti-counterfeiting legal action.” 
All the while, luxury titans have been busy lobbying governments “to extend enforcement bodies’ powers to seize and destroy fake goods, and to block access to websites that sell counterfeit goods,” per HBR. If the impending memo is any indication, the Trump administration is willing to up the ante. oa here
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The sneaker collection of every woman's dreams: Meet the uber stylish 24-year-old with a running shoe closet worth more than $58,500 - but she's never shown her face

An up-and-coming Danish Instagram star owns what is arguably the coolest collection of sneakers on earth, but despite posting daily pictures of her remarkable wardrobe, she's never shown her face on social media.
Sally Javadi, an Iranian-born psychology graduate who lives in eastern Denmark, has a closet stacked from floor to ceiling with over 150 pairs of unique, colourful sneakers, collectively worth more than $58,500 (AUD).
Ms Javadi, 24, shares photos of her vibrant treasure trove on Instagram, and despite creating her account just one year ago, already boasts over 96,000 followers who are keen to keep up with her ever expanding collection.
'I've always had two sides of who I am, my sneaker obsession and my university psychology world. It's very contradictory, and that's why I haven't gone public with my face - it's sort of my brand now,' she told Daily Mail Australia.
Danish psychology graduate Sally Javadi (pictured) owns what is arguably the coolest collection of sneakers on earth, posting daily photos of her remarkable wardrobe on Instagram - but never showing her face
Danish psychology graduate Sally Javadi (pictured) owns what is arguably the coolest collection of sneakers on earth, posting daily photos of her remarkable wardrobe on Instagram - but never showing her face
Her closet is stacked from floor to ceiling with over 150 pairs of unique, colourful sneakers, collectively worth more than $58,500 (AUD)
Her closet is stacked from floor to ceiling with over 150 pairs of unique, colourful sneakers, collectively worth more than $58,500 (AUD)
Sally's passion for quirky footwear runs deep.
She recently queued outside a store for five hours to get a sneaker in a specific colour, bringing her mother and sister along as company, but usually sources edgy pieces on US-based resale sites and consignment stores.
Her most expensive are a pair of brown, white and baby pink Travis Scott x Jordan 1s, a collaboration between the Texan rap superstar and footwear giant Nike which cost almost $3,000 (AUD).
Sally's passion for quirky footwear runs deep. sourcing edgy pieces on US-based resale sites and consignment stores
Sally's passion for quirky footwear runs deep. sourcing edgy pieces on US-based resale sites and consignment stores
Her most expensive are a pair of brown, white and baby pink Travis Scott x Jordan 1s (pictured), which cost almost $3,000 (AUD)
Her most expensive are a pair of brown, white and baby pink Travis Scott x Jordan 1s (pictured), which cost almost $3,000 (AUD)
Her favourite shoes are a colourfully mismatched pair of Nike Jordans, created by Iranian-American designer Melody Ehsani as a political statement against female oppression.
One shoe is orange, pink and red against a white background, while the other is green, blue and turquoise.
Both are adorned with a gold watch laced into the front panel and graffiti-style script which reads: 'If you knew what you had was rare, you would never waste it.'
Her favourite shoes are these colourfully mismatched pair of Nike Jordans created by Iranian-American designer Melody Ehsani as a political statement against female oppression
Both are adorned with a gold watch laced into the front panel and graffiti-style script which reads: 'If you knew what you had was rare, you would never waste it'
Although she owns a vast selection of sought-after pieces few collectors dare to dream of, Sally doesn't discriminate against simple classics.
'I love a simple pair of Nike Air Forces - they're my ultimate go-to sneakers,' she said of the globally popular all-white style, which cost roughly $150 (AUD).
Adidas Yung-1s - a modern take on chunky '90s sneakers - and Nike P-6000s - inspired by the divisive 'Dadcore' trend- are her other fail safe shoes, both of which retail at $150 (AUD).
'A classic can be just as good as a more expensive pair. It's not about the cost,' she said. oa here


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Optical illusion Louis Vuitton trainers spark fierce debate over whether they are white or black - but what colour do YOU see?

It is the question that divided the internet: is the dress white and gold, or blue and black? But now there's a new optical illusion baffling social media users across the nation.    
Gino, believed to be from the UK, shared a photo of a pair of Louis Vuitton trainers to Twitter and penned: 'Twitter are these white or black because all I see is white?' 
The controversial image, which has since gone viral and sparked a fierce online debate, has split social media users in two, with many arguing over what colour they see. 
'I don't know how anyone is seeing anything other than black,' wrote one, while a second penned: 'White is the only right answer.'
Gino, believed to be from the UK, shared a photo of a pair of Louis Vuitton trainers (pictured) to Twitter
Gino, believed to be from the UK, shared a photo of a pair of Louis Vuitton trainers (pictured) to Twitter

Alongside the controversial image, he questioned: 'Twitter are these white or black because all I see is white?'
Alongside the controversial image, he questioned: 'Twitter are these white or black because all I see is white?'
A third added: 'I could only see black and couldn't figure out how they were possibly white, but now I see white and I can't see black anymore wtf.'
And some took to the comments section to suggest the possible reasons people may be seeing different colours. 
'White shoes, with glow in the dark pattern. Picture taken with the lights off,' commented one, while a second penned: 'They’re white in a dark room.'
A third agreed: 'They're just white trainers in the dark. I don't get why people are confused,' while a further commented: They're white. Just no light.' 
Meanwhile, others suggested the way in which social media users see the colour of the trainers depends on the brightness of their phones.
'I reckon they're white but the brightness is turned down and the Louis Vuitton pattern is tricking your eyes. But at first glance I saw black,' admitted one, while a second agreed: 'Just change the brightness and you can tell they’re white.'



Many admitted they couldn't see anything other than black trainers featuring a white pattern (pictured)

Many admitted they couldn't see anything other than black trainers featuring a white pattern (pictured) 
Internet sensation: This picture of the dress previously sparked debate, with viewers disagreeing over the colour
Internet sensation: This picture of the dress previously sparked debate, with viewers disagreeing over the colour
A third commented: 'Depends how high my brightness is turned up on my phone. I usually have it quite dark so I see black, if I turn my brightness up to full then I can just about make it as a dirty white.' 
Despite several theories floating around, those who could see the shoes as black remained adamant of their opinion. 
'Black with white patterns,' wrote one, while a second penned: 'Fully black for me with White LV logo.'     
The debate is reminiscent of the two-toned frock debate, which saw users taking to social media to argue over what colours they could see - white and gold or blue and black.
The picture of the dress was first posted on Tumblr by Caitlin McNeill, a 21-year-old aspiring singer from Scotland, after noticing her friends saw different colours in the photograph.
The image became an online sensation, with posts arguing over the dress's original colours. Even celebrities weighed in on the fashion debate, with Kim Kardashian asking her 29.4million Twitter followers to help settle a disagreement between herself and husband Kanye West. 




Others argued the trainers are clearly white, but the picture has just been taken with the light off (pictured)

Others argued the trainers are clearly white, but the picture has just been taken with the light off (pictured)  oa here
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Thursday, January 9, 2020

Returned online purchases often sent to landfill

Cheaper for businesses to just toss returns than check if they can be resold


Winter coats
Online shopping has created a boom in perfectly good products ending up in dumpsters
Every day, perfectly good products end up in dumpsters, from unopened shampoo to unworn clothes. Why? The Current went dumpster diving with a seasoned scavenger to find out.  11:49

Do you order different sizes of clothing online, knowing you can return the one that doesn't fit?
Did you know the ones you return are sometimes sent straight to landfill?
Online shopping has created a boom in perfectly good products ending up in dumpsters and landfills, according to Adria Vasil, an environmental journalist and managing editor of Corporate Knights magazine.

Amazon has faced accusations of destroying returned items in both France and Germany.
The issue also affects unsold products. Burberry admitted in 2018 that it had incinerated £90 million worth of clothing and accessories in the previous five years. The company stopped the policy last year after a public outcry.

British luxury fashion brand Burberry is going to stop burning unsold clothes, bags and perfume, and will instead focus on recycling and donating their leftover product.  2:39
How is the boom in online shopping influencing how much good product just goes to waste?
It's pretty staggering. The increase of the volume of returns has exploded by 95 per cent over the last five years. And in Canada alone, we are returning $46 billion worth of goods every year. And you think, OK, what's the big deal? Well, the problem is that — especially when we're returning online — a lot of these products end up going in landfills.

Why? You're returning something that's new and fine?
It actually costs a lot of companies more money to put somebody on the product, to visually eyeball it and say, Is this up to standard, is it up to code? Is this going to get us sued? Did somebody tamper with this box in some way? And is this returnable? And if it's clothing, it has to be re-pressed and put back in a nice packaging. And for a lot of companies, it's just not worth it. So they will literally just incinerate it, or send it to the dumpster.
  
Have you ever bought any clothes online? 
Yes, absolutely.
We're buying more of our clothing online, but it's actually hard because you don't really know exactly the sizing. So what many of us are doing is called bracketing. We will buy a medium, small and large or, you know, an 8, 10 and 12, and try them all on and then return the two that don't fit. Problem is, the two that we return are actually, in many cases, being landfilled. And the brands do not want to deal with those returns. So they'd rather just dump them.

So are there companies that are trying to curb this practice? Are there solutions?
We're seeing so many clothing brands, in particular, throwing out or incinerating clothes, as Burberry did. They were caught burning billions of dollars of clothes. H&M as well. And it was a scandal, you know, for people in the clothing industry. Finding out, if you're a shopper, that billions of dollars are being burned because they do not want this ending up on the market, and undervaluing their clothes on shelves this year. It lowers the prices, et cetera.

So we're seeing some brands push back against this. Patagonia has started an online and a physical store for products that are maybe slightly damaged that they have repaired. You're seeing some brands actually do the repairing, encourage the repairing, so that they can get packages and goods back on shelves.
France is banning … having those [returned goods] go to landfill.
And so we're starting to see a shift in attitude. People are actually, I think, really fed up and disgusted by the practice.

Dumpster garbage
Stores will sometimes dump returned goods rather than go through the process of checking and repackaging them. (Shutterstock/ungvar)
Why won't companies give the clothes to charities?
It's an image thing. They're trying to maintain exclusivity. They're trying to maintain kind of the specialness of their product. But it's really symptomatic of a larger issue with kind of our consumer culture right now.
So what can we do as consumers, especially now that we're doing shopping for holidays? 
I would highly recommend that you do second-guess your returns. So, think about the product closely and see if there's somebody else who can give it to. If you do not want to return it, can you donate it instead?

Purchase second-hand. A lot of us are buying new goods that we don't really need. And there is an increased trend in second-hand shopping right now. And so I would encourage you to partake in it and to look for brands that are actually part of the circular economy, that are, like Patagonia, repairing, refurbishing and fixing goods at the end of their life so that they can have a second life. And so that we do not end up with so much waste. oa here
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Wednesday, January 8, 2020

The RealReal Will 'Dominate Digital Consignment Space'

Several digital native fashion retailers are worth taking a look at, according to DA Davidson.
Analyst John Morris initiated coverage of several fashion retailers Tuesday, including Revolve Group LLC RVLV 0.19% with a Neutral rating and $19 price target.
“As a digitally native brand, Revolve sits squarely at the intersection of sophisticated data-driven assortment planning and coveted fashion apparel,” the analyst said.

Inventory Overhang Remains A Concern

In the near term, Revolve is struggling with growing pains that are likely to last for several quarters as it "right-sizes" inventory and invests in future growth, Morris said.
Part of Revolve’s inventory overhang has been planned, as the company is building up for the launch of its superdown division and braces for international expansion, he said.
“Yet inventories have risen significantly faster than sales, most recently rising 31% in 3Q, ahead of 21% sales growth,” the analyst said.
A portion of the higher inventory levels have led to more discounting that weighs against gross margin upside, Morris said.
"We see these headwinds continuing for several more quarters."

The Real Deal

DA Davidson initiated coverage of The RealReal, Inc. REAL 5.2% with a Buy rating and $22 price target.
The RealReal is a brand destination with several first-mover competitive advantages in a market that is displaying accelerating growth, Morris said.
RealReal has a unique business model that makes it possible for the company to be a front-runner for trends like sustainability, uniqueness and individuality that are favored by the millennial and Gen Z demographics, he said.
"With a seamless supply chain, high customer retention, and substantial take rate, we expect REAL to dominate the digital consignment space,” the analyst said.
The RealReal’s authentication process has come into question of late, but this went unmentioned in the DA Davidson note.

Stitch Fix: Rising Ad Spend Tempers Sentiment  

Stitch Fix Inc SFIX 2.34% reported a first-quarter earnings and sales beat Monday, and several analysts highlighted the company’s new "direct buy" feature as a catalyst for future growth.
DA Davidson took a more guarded stance on Stitch Fix, initiating coverage with a Neutral rating and $27 price target.
Morris said he is cautious about Stitch Fix’s growth prospects, cost efficiency and a lack of visibility.
"We rate it Neutral because the company is showing a decelerating client growth rate despite significantly increasing marketing spend at a time when its core business is more challenged by competition and the complexities of growth which is likely to erode margins in the near term."
Stitch Fix is chasing new clients, and its advertising spend as a percentage of sales increased from 3% in 2016 to 8% in 2018 — yet its client growth rate is decelerating, the analyst said.
The e-commerce site is expecting  advertising spend as a percentage of sales to settle at around 9%-11% in FY2020, according to DA Davidson.
Increased competition could threaten the company’s market share, Morris said.
“According to our industry sources, Amazon.com, Inc. AMZN 2.72% and Nordstrom, Inc. JWN 2.05% lust for the customer data gathered from a subscription service: sizes, style preferences, direct feedback, etc.”
The new fashion subscription service entrants Rent the Runway and Urban Outfitters, Inc.'s URBN 0.22% Nuuly are other competitors clawing for market share, according to DA Davidson.  oa here
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Monday, January 6, 2020

By 2023, the secondhand clothes market will double to $51 billion. Here’s why

How Poshmark, Depop, and the RealReal are making your closet more eco-friendly


Resale platforms like the RealReal, ThredUp, and Depop have made shopping for used clothing easier than ever—and consumers are buying in. Fueled by millennials and Gen Z, the secondhand market is on track to more than double over the next five years, from $24 billion to $51 billion, according to ThredUp and retail analytics firm GlobalData. Traditional retailers are taking note: In 2019, Foot Locker invested $100 million in shoe reseller GOAT. Here’s a look at the numbers behind fashion’s latest trend.
Sources: The RealReal, Poshmark, GOAT Group, Depop (User Numbers, Depop demographics, What’s Selling); Company Valuations: Recode, April 2019 (StockX), market cap as of October 16, 2019 (the RealReal), the Wall Street Journal, April 2019 (Poshmark); ThredUp 2019 Resale Report (Who’s Shopping); A New Textiles Economy report, Ellen MacArthur Foundation (Environmental Impact); Euromonitor International (new clothing per capita)

A version of this article appeared in the Winter 2019/2020 issue of Fast Company magazine.

 

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Sunday, January 5, 2020

The It Bag Goes Unisex in China



Actor Feiyun Chen endorsing the hand case from Dior x Rimowa’s collaboration. Photo: @Dior’s official Weibo.

Gucci
A street snap of actor Xiao Zhao wearing the GG Supreme messenger bag went viral. Image: Sina China
The term It bag is often perceived as heavily feminine. Across the globe, women have long been the key demographic to success in the It bag business, and China is no exception. The much-diffused internet slang “包治百病,” appropriates the ancient Chinese medicine saying of “cure guarantee” in a pun to spell “bags cure all types of illness” in today’s context. Yet it’d be naïve to exclude Chinese men in this fashion frenzy. As gender norms continue to relax among the Chinese youth, sporting an It bag is increasingly indispensable to the total look of a Chinese male fashionista. A “unisex” shopping trend, embodied by behaviors like men buying women’s bags or women buying men’s bags, is on the rise.
In the November Beijing launch party of the Dior x Rimowa’s collaboration, Chinese male celebrities dominated the stage. Actors Feiyun Chen, Han Dongjun, and Lin Yi were all there to wear and promote the collaboration’s cross-body hand case. Sean Gao, a marketing manager based in Hong Kong, told Jing Daily that the hand case is already in his wish list. “I like it because it has a strong, firm look, and it is gender-neutral. In my day-to-day, I usually do shoppers because a shopper is not specifically designed for men or women,” he said. A quest for the more gender-inclusive design was the underlying sentiment.
But there have also been a rising number of Chinese men, straight or gay, that are opting for women’s bag, regardless of the gendered indication. Eric Liu, a Shanghai-based fashion blogger, told Jing Daily that he buys from the women’s bag section because the men’s section usually lacks choices. Unlike Sean, Eric doesn’t think the designer’s gendered intent as important. “The first made-for-women bag I bought was Marc Jacob’s Snapshot. It has a gender-neutral look and a cool chain design. As a straight man, I don’t feel embarrassed about wearing a bag designed for women because no one has pointed that out,” Eric said. However, he admits that most of fashion’s big names still have a limited offering of men’s bags. In his opinion, the existing choices are either too “street,” too utilitarian, or simply not fashionable enough.
Deny it or not, China’s fashion scene is undergoing an accelerated transformation of gendered identity. The number of male fashion bloggers on Chinese social media is spiking, boosted by now widespread “Little Fresh Meat” male idol phenomenon. On Weibo and Little Red Book, popular hashtags such as #男生怎么穿 (what men wear) and #实用男包推荐 (practical men bag recommendation) give a sneak peek into the country’s male fashionista community, although the so-called “practical” style tips often gear towards choices that are more trend-forward than practical. From posting about everyday tote, utility pouch, to logo-laden fanny packs, Chinese men fashionistas pursue the It bag just as fervently as women do.
It Bag Dude

The “It bag” dude community on Little Red Book. Photo: LRB screenshot.
In the West, the general implication for “unisex bag” still leans on the talk of utilitarian backpacks or, at most, a weekender bag for elegant occasions. An It bag for men is reserved for a closed and exclusive circle of urban fashionistas. In China, however, owning fashion-forward, big-name bags is a much more mainstream practice among the millennial men. Thanks to the broad gender fluidity trend in fashion, many old-time It bags for women now have launched their men versions: Fendi‘s Peekaboo, Dior’s saddle bag, Loewe’s Puzzle bag, Louis Vuitton‘s Soft Trunk collection, to name a few. According to social posts, some Chinese women also opt for these men’s versions for a more oversized, effortless chic look.
Dior
Dior’s China brand ambassador Junkai Wang wearing the brand’s iconic Saddle Bag. Photo: @Dior’s official Weibo.
A series of media images in China have injected this sense of gender fluidity among the youth, blurring their boundaries of traditional masculinity and femininity. In early 2018, the Chinese TV talent show “Idol Producer” gave rise to a wave of K-pop-style male idols wearing a chest-pack, neon-color jacket, bleached hair, and earrings. While delicate-featured male idols proliferate, young Chinese women are buying more power suits and increasingly attracted by a “girl boss” identity. In October 2018, Japanese condom brand Okamoto published a post titled “Boys buy bags, girls buy condom” on its WeChat account, saying that the ratio of women buying condoms on its e-commerce had risen from 30.6 % to 40.1% during November 2016 and June 2018.
In a country where systematic gender inequality and traditional family norms still persist, these signs of youth social changes would have all be seen as culturally outrageous just a decade ago. But today, even the adjective Chinese millennials use to praise women and men have radically changed. For example, the more relevant way to compliment a woman is to say she is “very alpha” instead of “very pretty.” To praise a man, they are adopting languages like “fashionably coquettish” (骚气 in Chinese). Though the notion of “coquettish” is often associated with an overtly flirtatious woman in the West, it refers to the androgynous cool appeal of a modern Chinese male idol.

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In beauty, big names such as Givenchy Beauty, Estée Lauder, and Guerlain have tapped young androgynous idols Jackson Yee, Wang Kai, and Yang Yang to capture the Chinese beauty consumers, now both female and male. But Chinese millennial men today are looking beyond beauty. The It bag market is the next step to make their style statements heard.
In 2019, a Gucci bag “the GG Supreme messenger bag” has been closely associated with actor Xiao Zhan, as the street snap of him wearing that bag got viral on the Internet. Celine, the French house mostly known for its women’s bags, appointed male idol Li Jian to carry the brand’s logo handbag on the September issue of Elle Men. Are these bags marketed to their female fans, or style inspiration for the fans’ boyfriends, or other Chinese men? Perhaps the answer is not important. What is important, is to have something that is “It” and cool enough to put on. oa here
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