The
French luxury conglomerate is betting that it can restore shine to the
faded American jeweller and boost its watches and jewellery division.
Tiffany storefront | Source: Shutterstock
PARIS, France — Luxury giant LVMH Moët Hennessy
Louis Vuitton SE has reached a $16.2 billion deal to buy American jeweller Tiffany & Co.
The
two companies announced Monday that they had entered an agreement for
LVMH to acquire Tiffany for $135 a share — a multi-billion dollar bet
that LVMH can restore Tiffany’s faded shine.
In a call Monday,
LVMH Chief Financial Officer Jean-Jacques Guiony described the deal as a
“game-changer” for the conglomerate’s watches & jewellery segment,
batting away concerns over Tiffany’s near-term performance.
“We
strongly believe that LVMH is not only an ideal owner for Tiffany but
also that this iconic brand is a perfect addition to our portfolio and
perfect complement to our existing model,” Guiony said.
The
all-cash acquisition is one of the largest ever for the French
conglomerate known for its hard-charging deal making and surpasses its
$13 billion deal for Christian Dior
in 2017. The announcement ends a month of speculation, after reports
that LVMH had approached the jeweller leaked in October. LVMH initially
offered $14.5 billion for Tiffany, according to Reuters, but the company
said the offer was too low.
That wasn’t the first time LVMH —
Europe’s second-most valuable company, with a market capitalisation
surpassing €200 billion — had set its sights on Tiffany. The
conglomerate reportedly expressed interest in the jeweller prior to its
takeover of
Bulgari in 2011 — LVMH's last major investment in hard luxury.
The
storied American brand has resisted acquisition for years, but as one
of the few independent global jewellery houses remaining in the market,
analysts had long speculated that it would make an attractive, if
expensive, target.
But Tiffany has had a difficult time lately. In
the first half of 2019, worldwide net sales at Tiffany decreased 3
percent to $2.1 billion. The American jeweller is facing weak demand at
home and abroad, and will likely need heavy investment to re-energise
its brand and business.
We are optimistic that we can, with this fabulous brand, increase the revenues further and expand the margins.
It’s been updating its store experience, and recently hired
former Barneys chief executive Daniella Vitale to reposition its brand identity. While the company continues to grow in China, it has struggled
to win over Millennials and Gen-Z consumers in the West, as young shoppers move away from traditional occasion-based gifting and as self-purchasing gains popularity.
“Within
LVMH, Tiffany will be able to accelerate its ongoing strategy,” Guiony
said. “We are optimistic that we can, with this fabulous brand, increase
the revenues further and expand the margins.”
The
deal will bring LVMH’s substantial financial and market clout to help
support Tiffany’s ongoing transformation efforts. At the same time, it
boosts the French company’s presence in the US market.
Last month, LVMH Chief Executive
Bernard Arnault had a
controversial photo-op with President Donald Trump at the opening of a new Louis Vuitton handbag factory in Texas, doubling down on the country.
The
deal also allows LVMH to gain further ground on Swiss conglomerate
Richemont, which has long dominated hard luxury with its ownership of
Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Jewellery was one of the
best-performing luxury categories in 2018, according to Bain & Co,
which predicts that the global $20 billion market will grow 7 percent
this year.
Acquiring Tiffany gives LVMH a greater degree of
control over its hard luxury supply chain. That’s an increasingly
desirable trait for luxury brands, under pressure to guarantee
provenance and lock in supply in a competitive market. Tiffany employs
more than 5,000 artisans to cut diamonds and craft its jewellery, rather
than buying from middlemen.
Going forward, LVMH is eyeing the
opportunity to expand Tiffany’s market penetration internationally. The
brand only generates 11 percent of its revenue in Europe, for instance.
Longer term, the deal opens up the prospect of new product categories
for the jeweller. While Guiony said watches wouldn’t be a big focus near
term, it would be “foolish” not to dabble into accessories including
leather goods and scarves, as they successfully did with Bulgari.
“This
is good news, and somewhat expected,” said Bernstein analyst Luca
Solca. The deal is priced slightly above expectations, but “still good
news for both shareholder bases.”
LVMH’s shares were up nearly 2
percent in market closing trading. The deal is expected to close in
mid-2020 subject to approval from Tiffany’s shareholders.
Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholder’s documentation guaranteeing BoF’s complete editorial independence.
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